London

“When it's three o'clock in New York, it's still 1938 in London.” 

― Bette Midler

Some of my friends from Midwest Ambassadors of Music
Zermatt, Switzerland 2007

The first (and only other) time I've been in London was on the 2007 Midwest Ambassadors of Music European Tour. Approximately 200 of we young musicians hit up seven European countries and performed in all sorts of spaces from gorgeous cathedrals, to serene parks, to town squares, to assembly halls. An incredible experience that has changed my life and for which I am eternally grateful. And London was our first stop. After the tour, despite everywhere we had gone and everything we had seen, my (to this day) best friend and I couldn't get London off our minds. We immediately began plans to spend a post-graduate year abroad together in London.  But as time went by and the real world became, well - real - this plan sort of faded away. The last few years, I couldn't even remember why we had made that plan anyway. What was so great about London?

BFF and I at Windsor Castle 2007

TRUST ME I REMEMBERED. 

Guys. I love London. I love the culture, I love the history, I love the theater, I love the accents, I love the public transportation, I LOVE THE ARCHITECTURE, I love the breakfast, I love tea time, I love the free art museums, I love the churches, I love the cider. I could totally live in London.

When all of the study abroad students first arrived in Athens, a major topic of conversation was heritage. Funny how important your ancestors become when you are outside of the States. I'm very German, a little Irish, a smidgen of Black Dutch, and am somehow related to some sort of royalty somewhere in the Whales. But I often find myself forgetting about those things, looking right back to the Mayflower, and thinking I'm English. 

Anyway. About our trip. A HUGE shout out and thank you to Anna's sister, Amy, who studied abroad in London a few years back and practically planned our entire tour for us. You're the best! We arrived in London late at night, and took a bus and a train from Luton Airport to Kings Cross Station where Anna and I wandered the area in search of our hostel. This is actually the first time we have had to stay in a real hostel. For some reason, I've always pictured hostels as looking something like the hospital room in Harry Potter, but more like a big gym-type room, several little beds, curtains around them...

Expectation...

Reality

Now, add the bags, garbage, and other various belongings of nine girls to the second image. Anna and I arrived at our new home well past midnight, trying our best to squeeze through the rubbish, unpack a little bit, and climb into the bunks making as little noise as possible. It was a place to sleep and occasionally shower (when I was feeling brave enough) and was super conveniently located. But, the few occasions we did spend time (again, squeezing) in the community room to use the internet, we had a fascinating opportunity to observe many other travelers from all over the world - Spain, France, Denmark, USA, Japan, etc. So cool! What was weird, however, was that it seemed like a lot of the residents never really left the building.... ever. Morning and night, the hostel was full of the same people eating, drinking, watching movies, sleeping, etc. I regret never getting a chance to ask anyone what they were up to in London in the first place - something I'll just have to be curious about.

Anyway. London is amazing. Right.

Day 1 (Saturday)
First thing in the morning (maybe 5 hours of sleep?) we grabbed some pb&j's (HEAVEN), purchased Oyster cards and hopped on the tube headed towards Covent Gardens to stand in line at Cambridge Theater for £5 student rush tickets to Matilda the Musical. TIP: If you're planning on spending a few days in London, buy an Oyster card for the tube. They cost £5 and are a super convenient way to get around. AND at the end of your stay, you can sell the Oyster card back! At the theater, we stood in line behind two girls who are studying abroad in Dublin. So fun to talk to them and compare experiences! One girl is from Pennsylvania and the other from Norway. Heritage played a big part in this conversation also as Anna is SUPER Norwegian. Did you know they have three more letters in their alphabet? After a two hour's freezing wait in line, we were extra lucky and got 2 of the last 3 tickets to that nights performance - with excellent seats. Thank you, God.

Then, we hopped back on the tube and headed to Victoria Station to meet my cousin Hillary! I haven't seen her in a few years - what a blessing.

FUN FACT: London is only one square mile. We spent most of the rest of our weekend walking. From Victoria, we headed up the road toward Buckingham Palace (you know... the Queen's house) where a huge crowd was beginning to gather. Have you heard of Group Psychology? It's a real thing. We had no idea what was going on, but thinking it MUST be cool, we joined the crowd. As more and more people began to join, we started to overhear many people asking the same questions we were thinking. Somehow, the rumor began and the group decided it MUST be that the Queen was going to do something. We got excited, and spent maybe 30 minutes in anticipation.

It was the changing of the guards. Every other day during the low season from 11:30-12, the guards parade from their barracks down the road and enter the palace, one group at a time. Cool.... but not worth the crowds. It took us another 30 minutes to simply get across the street. Oofta.

Next, we explored Picadilly Circus, had some traditional English Breakfast (AMAZING), and checked out an adorable Christmas store called Fortnum and Masons. Seriously... it felt like Harry Potter. Then, Hillary bid us farewell at the British Museum. It was incredible to get to see her and learn about her experiences in England! There, we checked out some more amazing Renaissance paintings and statues and even some marble remnants from the Acropolis. The coolest thing we saw was the Rosetta Stone. Then, we checked out the National Gallery. So much beautiful art and most of the museums are free - how cool is that?! On a side note, I love going to museums with an art minor! Before the play, we explored Covent Gardens and the market - SO CUTE (and SUPER Christmasy... I love it). There were new street performing acts going on every half hour.

Matilda was freaking amazing. It felt SO GOOD to be back in the theater again (and have it be in English). Anna and I felt so at home. This entire study abroad experience has been a definite reinforcement of my calling in the theater.

Day 2 (Sunday)

Look! It's Big Ben!

On Sundays, London theaters normally either take a day off, or the show is so good that they've been sold out for weeks. So today was a day of exploring London. First things first, we checked out "Platform 9 3/4"... which was not actually filmed between Platforms 9 and 10 as they are not even adjacent to each other. However, there is a cute monument to 9 3/4 where you can take a picture pushing a cart through the brick wall for free. Then, we headed to Parliament Square, home of Westminster Abbey, Big Ben, and Parliament.

Then, we crossed the bridge by the London Eye and stumbled upon a charming (CHRITSMASY) riverside market. Sooo many fun markets. Another reason I love London.

After some tasty street brats, we crossed back over and nature watched in St. James Park (home of pelicans, swans and other fancy birds). Then, we relaxed some more over a nice hot cup of tea, bread pudding and scones before Evensong. TIP: Getting into Westminster Abbey and St. Paul's Cathedral is spendy. If you want to see the inside for free AND get an incredible spiritual experience WHILE listening to a choir sing beautifully, attend the Evensong services - daily and only maybe an hour long.

We finished the night by walking the Tower Bridge, watching people skate at the Tower of London, and enjoying some delicious cider ale and fish and chips. We stopped back by Picadilly Circus to see if we maybe wanted to catch a movie, but decided to call it a night.

Day 3 (Monday) 

Globe Theater Stage

We started our day at St. Paul's Cathedral and then crossed the famous Millennial Bridge toward the Tate Modern Art Museum (FREE!) and the Globe Theater and exhibition. Apparently, it was also national field trip day - so many little school children everywhere. The Globe was the only tour we paid for and was worth every pence (ha). To our total disappointment however, we were not allowed to climb up onto the stage and recite. Boo. Fun fact: The Globe Theater and the Royal Shakespeare Company are actually RIVAL theater companies. Some day, I'll get to see both groups perform...

Note to Self: NEVER forget to pack granola bars EVER. Seriously, hangry is a real thing and sometimes, not even the English eating schedule can stop it. We headed over to Borough Market for lunch (at the recommendation of my dear friend Lizzie, who studied in London this summer) which is a more eclectic market. However, being the off season in London, it was limited mostly to fresh produce rather then food food. So, we hit up a delicious Indian restaurant around the corner. London is well known for its fabulous Indian dining. YUM.

Afterwards, it was time for the Evensong Service at Saint Paul's. Absolutely gorgeous. Then, we took the tube across town to try and check out the V&A (free) before it closed, but didn't get much time. We headed back to Victoria Station to relax over Cornish Pasties and coffee before tonight's show, Billy Elliot. It was also fantastic... I may have cried a little bit.

Outside Saint Paul's Cathedral

Victoria Palace Theater

The entire trip was so surreal. I forgot all about school in Athens... we were totally in the moment the entire time. 19 days left of study abroad. Thanks for keeping up with my experiences! 

The Two Ladies in Verona

Let's rewind a minute. March, 2013. Anna and I are sitting down to lunch in Old Chicago. We order bruschetta and pizza - half Hawaiian, half Margarita. It was this monumental meal that brought me here. When I walked into the restaurant, I never thought I'd be spending the next semester of school in Athens, Greece. In fact, I had never even heard of this school. While in Old Chicago, as we were discussing this opportunity, we mused about how we could take a weekend in Italy, order more pizza there, and muse about how awesome studying abroad is. 

Boom. Done. 

Emailing Juliet!
Wonder if she'll reply...

Verona, Italy. The setting of Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet and parts of The Two Gentlemen of Verona. Local legend has it that Romeo and Juliet were real people. If so, I recited Juliet's monologue off of her real balcony, read the graffiti in her actual tomb, and ate at the restaurant that was supposedly once Romeo's house (which was merely a couple blocks away from Juliet's.... yeah, right). Rest assured, Anna and I also wrote our letters to Juliet and left them on the wall under her balcony, took a picture rubbing her right breast for good luck, and even wrote her an email while touring her house (who knew she was so high tech?!). The email read something like this:

Dear Juliet,

Do it girl. Deny thy father. That Romeo Efron is a HUNK.

Love, Anna and Debbi

PS: You do know he was in love with Rosalie, right? Can anyone say, rebound?!

Other than where we were going to sleep and how we were going to get there, Anna and I really didn't have any plans for our stay in Verona. Originally, we were going to spend the weekend exploring Cinque Terre on the coast, but the more we travel, the more we are discovering how difficult it is when you are on your own (and Cinque Terre appears to be a very difficult place to get to). When we first begun our study abroad experience, I temporarily objected to the various tours I've been on. "There wasn't time to immerse oneself within the  culture," I thought to myself. "And most people didn't even care about the monuments and sights we were touring. Isn't it much better to explore on your own?" I assure you, those idiot thoughts were brief. Though there is definitely a LOT of merit in going places on your own and a lot more opportunity to experience culture that way, I'm right back to being incredibly grateful for the knowledgeable and gracious people who have introduced me to every culture, country, and historical place I have experienced, and all at my leisure of not having to plan anything. 

So yeah. ANYWAY. We went to Verona and stayed there the whole time because it was simple and relaxing. However, fun fact, the simplicity of traveling to Verona and its marketable association with Shakespeare's tragic duo makes this city a very popular spot for couples. However, Northern Italy is not popular for speaking English. So, unfortunately, the closest thing to a friend that we made was a really adorable puppy inside a gelato place. However, we did see practically every site and museum there is to see in Verona. And drank Italian hot chocolate like it was nobody's business.

TIP: Italian hot chocolate is, in fact, the true nectar of the Gods. Screw Italian pizza and pasta and whatever else they supposedly have to offer. It all pales in comparison. If I could have spent the weekend drinking only hot chocolate and eating gelato, I would have. And I never would have discovered its glory if I hadn't Googled "Things to Do in Italy." 

The extent to which dinner customs vary from place to place kind of blows my mind a little. Before coming to Italy, I was expecting the culture to be relatively similar to the Greek culture. I mean, I've been pretty classically trained on the Italian culture from my time working at Olive Garden (ha), but it is all still Mediterranean, right? But what I actually discovered was that I had no idea what was going on. When we landed in Italy, we took a bus to the train station, the train to Verona, and a cab to our b&b (La Buchetta - highly recommend!). By the time we got there, it was 8 pm, dark and we were starving (apparently, right on time for Italian dinner!). Claudio, the owner, gave us directions to a nearby pizzeria which seemed simple enough... but resulted in Anna and I wandering around the sleepy residential area of Verona for maybe an hour before we found it. We ordered a pizza to split and a glass of the best wine I've even had in my life. We sat back, relaxed and were grateful to be here. But, when we got the pizza, I had a mini panic attack. How do Italians eat pizza?! It came to us cut in half, on two separate plates and wasn't sliced. And neither of us were sitting at an angle where we could see other people eating their pizza. My vision of relaxing and musing over Italian pizza fell apart. I wanted to eat it right - respectfully. From what I've heard, mealtime in Italy is a sacred event. 

However, looking back, I'm reminded of the wise words of my wonderful friend and advisor, Kim: "Pride'll kill ya. You aren't nearly as important as you think you are." I'm sure my pizza would have tasted way better if I had had those words in mind. Also, they appear to eat pizza with knife and fork. 

The rest of our time in Verona was much more pleasant, though we still didn't necessarily have a clear idea of what we were doing. The next morning, when Anna and I got on the bus with no idea how to purchase tickets (tickets for public transportation are similar to Greece - do it yourself and occasionally get checked), we had an adorable encounter with an old Italian man who didn't speak any English. Like I said, Northern Italy is notorious for not having a lot of English available - on signs, in museums, and in the people. So, when I asked this man for help to work the ticket machine, and he responded in Italian, I expected to perhaps just wait for the next person to come along. But no. Instead, he continued to speak to me in Italian, took my money, asked other people on the bus to help exchange our money for the correct change and showed us how to work the machine. While I continued to stand there smiling with my palms up, eyebrows raised and saying "uhhhh." It was a hilarious and incredible experience in cross-cultural communication. 

Once we got the bus system down, all of Verona was at our finger tips. We wandered into every art museum, explored the castles, recited in the arenas and theaters, lit candles in gorgeous churches, and hiked in the hills. TIP: In Verona, on the first Sunday of every month, tickets to get into most museums are only 1€. If you don't happen to visit on that day, get a Verona pass - one pass/price for all the major museums and sights. ;)

One month left of our study abroad experience. Though I'm getting ready to be home, see my loved ones, get back in the theater, and have access to the rest of my closet.... I'm scared and sad to be leaving Greece soon. Who knows when or if I'll get to come back here and see my friends and experience this culture again? In preparation for our upcoming departure, I will be spending my time eating as much Greek yogurt and souvlaki with my new friends as physically possible. If only that pesky homework wasn't getting in the way...

In other news, I'll be on my way to London for the weekend in the next couple hours. It'll be nice to have a couple days in a place where everything is in English. :) We'll be spending time seeing shows and exploring the city with my lovely cousin Hillary. I can hardly wait! We also just booked plane tickets to see Istanbul, Turkey over Thanksgiving break. Stay tuned and thank you for reading!

Santorini - The Best Decision Ever

Three day break from classes well-spent! Celebrated Oxi Day Weekend on the incredible island of Santorini (you know, like in Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants?). The ferry left Athens Saturday morning at 7:30 am. We booked the tickets and our hostel at 11 pm on Friday. Left the dorms at 5:45 am. TIP: Economy seats on a ferry could mean anything from airplane seats to chairs and tables outside on the deck. Either way, get on to the boat at least 30 minutes before it leaves... or bring a jacket. But really, TIP: bring a jacket anyway. Because Santorini isn't just an island. Its an island made up of cliffs and cliffs mean the occasional windchill. But whatever. We still got tans. :)

Helloooo Fira, Santorini.

Bye bye, Athens!

ALSO! One last ferry TIP. Before you leave, check how many stops there are before arriving to your destination. The announcements are kind of hard to understand sometimes, and the barista might not exactly be friendly either, so you may pull a move like we did and get off on the wrong island and almost miss your ferry. Just a word from the wise. 

ANYWAY. When we did get off on Santorini and get to our hostel, we again experienced the amazing capacity of Greek hospitality. Thanks to a recommendation from a friend, we stayed at Villa Manos just outside of Fira (the main city of the island). The staff of this hostel not only picked us up from the ferry, but also fed us and told us everything we'd need to know about getting around Santorini. After we'd settled in, our new neighbor from Israel, Tithau (who had also just arrived from our ferry) knocked on our door and invited us to join him on a walk through town to see the sunset. 

Photographers perched in Oia.

Let me take a moment to explain the Santorini Sunset. On this island, everything revolves around the sunset and your entire day is planned around being able to catch its splendor over dinner on the cliffs. The most popular viewing point for this event is in the town of Oia (Eeyah) on the top of a fortress-looking thing and the farthest edge of the island. Tourists from all over the world flock to this location daily - its an overwhelming mess, and in my opinion, the view is just as nice from Fira (the main city of the island and where we stayed.

Fira Sunset

Oia Sunset 

We ended up spending the whole weekend with Tithau from Israel and another new friend, Angela, from Seattle. It was incredible! A big life lesson that "danger" does not always apply to "stranger." Together, we ate a lot of delicious food, sampled a lot of delicious wine, climbed a volcano, swam in hot springs, and explored the beaches. My favorite beach in the whole world is now Red Beach - you have to do a little hike to get there. The water was so clear, you could see right down to your toe nails! One of the best weekends of my life. :)

Red Beach