Night Lights

From my experience, I feel like cities in Europe can't be truly appreciated until they are experienced at night. The youths of Italians (and when I say youths, I mean anywhere between ages 18-30something) gather nightly in the piazzas (squares) and sit around the fountains and talk and drink and eat gelato. Someone told me, "its like there's a nightly block party in Italy!" And they are so right. Our last night in Rome, a few of us ventured out to experience the sights under the sparkle of night. Parks do not close at night and there aren't open container laws. Not because Italians like to get crunk, but because community is such a vital aspect of their culture. Around the dinner table and the fountains, Italians devote their daily lives to each other. Its definitely one of the things I appreciate most about Italian culture. One of those things that we are unfortunately lacking in America.

So, as a tribute to our last night in Rome and as a general means of kicking off our tour, a few of us ventured towards a nearby square, casually passing the Colliseum along our way. Its silently beautiful resilience gracefully replaced the dusty hot crowds we had witnessed earlier in the day. A warm yellow Italian moon shone brightly above it.

When we arrived at the square, it was fairly intimidating. According to Elizabeth Gilbert, Italians keep the same group of friends from grade school through adulthood. Walking into that square full of happy Italians speaking in Italian separated into their lifelong cliques... well, it felt like walking into a lunchroom as a transfer student in the 7th grade, I'm sure. After getting enough courage to have some discouraging chit chat with some American freshman fratboy smoking a Cuban cigar, we gave up our attempts to be Italian-square-cool, hopped in a taxi and headed toward the Trevi Fountain.

TIP: Trevi Fountain at night is a must see!

Like the Coliseum, it was a beautiful Italian image, all lit up and sparkling at night and was a peaceful comparison to the crazy crowds from earlier. This was the first time I felt truly relaxed on our journey (though I became a semi-pro by the end of the trip). It felt like magic. We had a long and beautiful conversation with an Asian Australian couple about everything from style to theology before we hopped in another cab towards our hotel and said goodbye to Rome.

Buonanotte and I hope you enjoy these slowly pieced together legs of our journey.

The Two Ladies in Verona

Let's rewind a minute. March, 2013. Anna and I are sitting down to lunch in Old Chicago. We order bruschetta and pizza - half Hawaiian, half Margarita. It was this monumental meal that brought me here. When I walked into the restaurant, I never thought I'd be spending the next semester of school in Athens, Greece. In fact, I had never even heard of this school. While in Old Chicago, as we were discussing this opportunity, we mused about how we could take a weekend in Italy, order more pizza there, and muse about how awesome studying abroad is. 

Boom. Done. 

Emailing Juliet!
Wonder if she'll reply...

Verona, Italy. The setting of Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet and parts of The Two Gentlemen of Verona. Local legend has it that Romeo and Juliet were real people. If so, I recited Juliet's monologue off of her real balcony, read the graffiti in her actual tomb, and ate at the restaurant that was supposedly once Romeo's house (which was merely a couple blocks away from Juliet's.... yeah, right). Rest assured, Anna and I also wrote our letters to Juliet and left them on the wall under her balcony, took a picture rubbing her right breast for good luck, and even wrote her an email while touring her house (who knew she was so high tech?!). The email read something like this:

Dear Juliet,

Do it girl. Deny thy father. That Romeo Efron is a HUNK.

Love, Anna and Debbi

PS: You do know he was in love with Rosalie, right? Can anyone say, rebound?!

Other than where we were going to sleep and how we were going to get there, Anna and I really didn't have any plans for our stay in Verona. Originally, we were going to spend the weekend exploring Cinque Terre on the coast, but the more we travel, the more we are discovering how difficult it is when you are on your own (and Cinque Terre appears to be a very difficult place to get to). When we first begun our study abroad experience, I temporarily objected to the various tours I've been on. "There wasn't time to immerse oneself within the  culture," I thought to myself. "And most people didn't even care about the monuments and sights we were touring. Isn't it much better to explore on your own?" I assure you, those idiot thoughts were brief. Though there is definitely a LOT of merit in going places on your own and a lot more opportunity to experience culture that way, I'm right back to being incredibly grateful for the knowledgeable and gracious people who have introduced me to every culture, country, and historical place I have experienced, and all at my leisure of not having to plan anything. 

So yeah. ANYWAY. We went to Verona and stayed there the whole time because it was simple and relaxing. However, fun fact, the simplicity of traveling to Verona and its marketable association with Shakespeare's tragic duo makes this city a very popular spot for couples. However, Northern Italy is not popular for speaking English. So, unfortunately, the closest thing to a friend that we made was a really adorable puppy inside a gelato place. However, we did see practically every site and museum there is to see in Verona. And drank Italian hot chocolate like it was nobody's business.

TIP: Italian hot chocolate is, in fact, the true nectar of the Gods. Screw Italian pizza and pasta and whatever else they supposedly have to offer. It all pales in comparison. If I could have spent the weekend drinking only hot chocolate and eating gelato, I would have. And I never would have discovered its glory if I hadn't Googled "Things to Do in Italy." 

The extent to which dinner customs vary from place to place kind of blows my mind a little. Before coming to Italy, I was expecting the culture to be relatively similar to the Greek culture. I mean, I've been pretty classically trained on the Italian culture from my time working at Olive Garden (ha), but it is all still Mediterranean, right? But what I actually discovered was that I had no idea what was going on. When we landed in Italy, we took a bus to the train station, the train to Verona, and a cab to our b&b (La Buchetta - highly recommend!). By the time we got there, it was 8 pm, dark and we were starving (apparently, right on time for Italian dinner!). Claudio, the owner, gave us directions to a nearby pizzeria which seemed simple enough... but resulted in Anna and I wandering around the sleepy residential area of Verona for maybe an hour before we found it. We ordered a pizza to split and a glass of the best wine I've even had in my life. We sat back, relaxed and were grateful to be here. But, when we got the pizza, I had a mini panic attack. How do Italians eat pizza?! It came to us cut in half, on two separate plates and wasn't sliced. And neither of us were sitting at an angle where we could see other people eating their pizza. My vision of relaxing and musing over Italian pizza fell apart. I wanted to eat it right - respectfully. From what I've heard, mealtime in Italy is a sacred event. 

However, looking back, I'm reminded of the wise words of my wonderful friend and advisor, Kim: "Pride'll kill ya. You aren't nearly as important as you think you are." I'm sure my pizza would have tasted way better if I had had those words in mind. Also, they appear to eat pizza with knife and fork. 

The rest of our time in Verona was much more pleasant, though we still didn't necessarily have a clear idea of what we were doing. The next morning, when Anna and I got on the bus with no idea how to purchase tickets (tickets for public transportation are similar to Greece - do it yourself and occasionally get checked), we had an adorable encounter with an old Italian man who didn't speak any English. Like I said, Northern Italy is notorious for not having a lot of English available - on signs, in museums, and in the people. So, when I asked this man for help to work the ticket machine, and he responded in Italian, I expected to perhaps just wait for the next person to come along. But no. Instead, he continued to speak to me in Italian, took my money, asked other people on the bus to help exchange our money for the correct change and showed us how to work the machine. While I continued to stand there smiling with my palms up, eyebrows raised and saying "uhhhh." It was a hilarious and incredible experience in cross-cultural communication. 

Once we got the bus system down, all of Verona was at our finger tips. We wandered into every art museum, explored the castles, recited in the arenas and theaters, lit candles in gorgeous churches, and hiked in the hills. TIP: In Verona, on the first Sunday of every month, tickets to get into most museums are only 1€. If you don't happen to visit on that day, get a Verona pass - one pass/price for all the major museums and sights. ;)

One month left of our study abroad experience. Though I'm getting ready to be home, see my loved ones, get back in the theater, and have access to the rest of my closet.... I'm scared and sad to be leaving Greece soon. Who knows when or if I'll get to come back here and see my friends and experience this culture again? In preparation for our upcoming departure, I will be spending my time eating as much Greek yogurt and souvlaki with my new friends as physically possible. If only that pesky homework wasn't getting in the way...

In other news, I'll be on my way to London for the weekend in the next couple hours. It'll be nice to have a couple days in a place where everything is in English. :) We'll be spending time seeing shows and exploring the city with my lovely cousin Hillary. I can hardly wait! We also just booked plane tickets to see Istanbul, Turkey over Thanksgiving break. Stay tuned and thank you for reading!